By SHERRY BUNTING

Special for Farmshine

HARRISBURG, Pa. — The U.S. dairy herd is growing, but this is no ordinary dairy expansion.

Beef-on-dairy economics, rising milk components and changing consumer demand are rewriting what drives dairy farm revenue and milk production. So said CoBank lead dairy economist Corey Geiger as he spoke to about 75 dairy lenders, farmers, and industry professionals on Sept. 9 at the Center for Dairy Excellence’s Dairy Financial and Risk Management Conference in Harrisburg.

A speaker presenting data using a chart, gesturing with a pen, wearing a plaid blazer and white shirt.
CoBank lead dairy economist Corey Geiger said beef-on-dairy has fundamentally changed the economics of keeping cows, raising replacements, and producing calves. “We’re keeping a category of cows because the uterus is worth more than the cow itself,” he told attendees at the Center for Dairy Excellence Financial & Risk Management Conference Sept. 9. Photo by Sherry Bunting

Appropriately themed “Rewriting the Future,” the conference opened with Geiger detailing several structural shifts that are already changing the value of a cow, what comes from a hundredweight of milk, and where that milk ultimately finds a market.

Geiger stated the nation’s dairy cow herd is the largest in 34 years. He said he wanted to be “crystal clear” about what is driving the added cows, noting that since Labor Day of 2023, U.S. dairy farmers have culled 457,600 fewer cows as high cattle prices and beef-on-dairy breeding changed the economics.

“It is not being driven by the return on the milk. It is being driven by the protein-nuggets being born every nine months after you breed a cow. We’re keeping a category of cows because the uterus is worth more than the cow itself. Some cows and some farms are becoming cow-calf operators,” Geiger said.

“This is a decoupling. We have not seen this in our lifetimes in the dairy industry.”

Genomics and sexed semen allow dairies to target their best animals for dairy replacements while breeding a growing share of the remainder to beef. Geiger pointed out that about 8.1 million of the 9.4 million units of beef semen sold in the U.S. last year went to dairy farms.

That is putting hundreds of thousands more dairy-beef calves into the beef supply chain, especially as veal production has declined. Where cull cows, calves, and other cattle sales historically represented around 5% of dairy farm revenue, Geiger said some farm financial data now puts that contribution above 20%.

The shift also changes expansion math. A replacement heifer that once might have been budgeted at $1600 can now cost closer to $3200.

It’s different milk

At the same time, the milk coming from those cows is changing rapidly. U.S. butterfat and protein percentages have climbed steadily, and butterfat growth has accelerated in the last few years.

“The U.S. is growing butterfat at paces not seen anywhere else in the world,” said Geiger, noting it has increased about twice as fast as protein, with much of the gain driven by genetics.

This creates more saleable product from every hundredweight of milk. He showed the numbers: 100 pounds of milk yields 15.8% more Cheddar cheese than 15 years ago, rising from about 10 pounds to 11.6 pounds.

Meanwhile, the imbalance between butterfat and protein creates its own challenges. Geiger explained that cheese makers generally prefer milk with a protein-to-fat ratio above 0.80. The U.S. ratio has fallen to about 0.77 as butterfat has outpaced protein.

With about half of U.S. milk solids flowing into cheese, plants increasingly must separate cream, standardize the milk, or add milk protein concentrates, nonfat dry milk or other protein to get the vat composition they need because the wrong ratio impacts cheese storability, texture, and taste.

The industry has succeeded in producing more components, but not necessarily in the proportions every plant was built to handle.

Consumers want protein

Fortunately for dairy, one of the strongest consumer trends is landing squarely on protein. Geiger showed Circana survey data demonstrating 70% of consumers are trying to add protein to their diets, ahead of fiber, vitamin D, and calcium, with dairy having three of those top four things and processors increasingly looking to add fiber to products like yogurt to cover all four.

High-protein dairy products have surged from about $4.7 billion to $8.1 billion in five years, a 71% increase, “and that number is going to blow past $9 billion this year. I guarantee it,” he said.

The growth is showing up throughout the dairy case. Traditional milk still represents 73% of dairy-related beverage gallons, but its volume slipped 1.5% over the latest 52 weeks through May 2026, according to Geiger. Meanwhile, value-added milk rose 4.4%, nutritional beverages 8.9%, yogurt drinks 14.6% and kefir 26.2%.

Products such as fairlife use filtration to concentrate protein and remove lactose, turning milk into something a higher protein beverage. Geiger also sees GLP-1 weight-loss medications as a potentially lasting influence. Consumers eating fewer calories are placing more emphasis on nutrient density and may have more room in their budgets for foods that deliver protein and taste.

“This is a structural shift,” he said. “This is a game-changer.”

He sees another untapped opportunity in ordinary milk.

“We are giving protein away. Our protein levels are going up, and we’re not standardizing for protein. It’s going out in the carton. That’s great for consumers, but let’s tell them!” he said. “Let’s update our labels on our milk cartons and say, ‘Hey, we got more protein.’ This isn’t the stuff that’s getting filtered. This is just being pasteurized and put in cartons.”

Exports not optional

The same structural change is evident overseas. When the U.S. Dairy Export Council was formed in 1995, exports represented only 2% to 3% of U.S. milk production. Today, Geiger said, the figure is around 17%.

Cheese exports have set repeated records with monthly cheese exports first breaking 110 million pounds in May 2025 and have since exceeded 140 million pounds.

“Out of the big three — EU, New Zealand, and the U.S. — we have the lowest cheese prices in the world among the big traders, and because of that, we’re selling a lot of cheese,” he said.

That outlet is increasingly important because domestic consumers remain financially divided. Quick-service restaurant traffic has weakened as lower-income households eat more meals at home, creating a drag on domestic cheese demand even as higher-income consumers continue spending.

U.S. butter imports also climbed from roughly 10 million pounds in 2010 to about 176 million pounds in 2024, he said, but as U.S. farms produced more butterfat, the country began shifting toward greater butter exports in 2025.

“This is a structural shift. This is not something that just happened overnight,” said Geiger.

Chobani lands the shift

The timing of Pennsylvania’s new $1.2 billion Chobani dairy manufacturing investment could hardly fit Geiger’s presentation better. Immediately following him, Jared Grissinger, executive director of the Governor’s Office of Transformation and Opportunity, updated conference attendees on the Lehigh County project announced last week.

He said Chobani plans to manufacture high-protein dairy beverages at the site and eventually use roughly 3 billion pounds of milk annually, which it hopes to source from Pennsylvania.

Asked about the timeline, he shared that production is expected to begin in 2027 and ramp up in phases, reaching about 1 billion pounds of milk annually by the end of 2028 and approaching 3 billion pounds around 2030.

That’s not a small ask,” he said, estimating that every dollar of plant investment can require another $1 to $1.50 of investment on farms, putting the potential dairy-farm investment needed to serve the facility at roughly $2 billion to $2.5 billion over the coming years.

“I think we are at an inflection point for dairy in the state,” Grissinger stated, adding that Chobani wants to work with Pennsylvania’s size farms through cooperatives, not tied to direct contracts with just very large farms.

During the Q&A, a conference attendee noted that some co-ops that are expected to supply the plant currently limit additional milk and have told members they cannot guarantee a market for added production.

Grissinger said those discussions are already beginning to change as co-ops evaluate the opportunity. Some of Chobani’s initial milk needs can be supplied from existing production, he said, but that will not be enough as the plant adds lines and moves toward its planned capacity. He also mentioned other mid-sized projects in the works.

From start to finish, the “Rewriting the Future” theme of the conference put forth a challenge to the lenders and industry professionals gathered that the next chapter in Pennsylvania dairy may talk about milk growth, but it will really be about business decisions and how much butterfat and protein are packed into each hundredweight, and whether farms and processors can invest fast enough to capture the opportunity presented by consumers wanting those nutrients.

The conference dug deeper into the economic outlook, risk management tools, and farm succession, including a producer panel on businesses built beyond traditional family ownership structures.

To be continued.

A farmer and an agricultural advisor discussing crops in a field, with Ruhl Insurance logo and banner text about farm and agri-business insurance.
Advertisement

Upcoming events